Spring 2025: Thompsons take on the Big Apple

One conversation the Mr. and I kept having while we were in NYC for our 20th anniversary in December was how enjoyable it would be to introduce the kids to the city, though it would be out of our budget to plan a family trip in the foreseeable future.

So when Kelley was assigned to travel to New York for work in May, the kids and I quite literally jumped at the chance to tag along. We left for the city just a few days after we returned from Philly, but the hassle of back-to-back trips was worth it to experience NYC with the kids.

We woke up early that Wednesday morning and boarded the Amtrak from Union Station in D.C. to Penn Station in Manhattan with just our backpacks for luggage. (We weren’t sure we’d be able to check in to the hotel early, and I didn’t want to cart luggage all over the city with the kids while Kelley was at work.) This was the kids’ first time traveling by train, and we could feel their palpable excitement from across the cabin aisle.

We arrived at Penn Station around lunchtime, so we grabbed a quick bite in the train station before starting the 1.6-mile walk to our hotel to see if we could drop our bags, stopping by the Empire State Building for a quick photo op on the way. We were pleasantly surprised, however, when we reached the Fifty Sonesta in Midtown East—the same hotel Kelley and I stayed at in December—when they did us one better and allowed us to check into our room early. We freshened up and then hit the streets to mark off as many tourist traps as we could off of our list while Kelley headed to the Australian ambassador’s residence for work.

It rained three out of the four days we were in NYC, but having lived in the Pacific Northwest, we didn’t let that slow us down. That afternoon, we caught the last 10 minutes of Catholic Mass at St. Patrick’s Cathedral, which was an experience in itself. There is a whole protocol to Mass that we Protestants were ignorant about, but we followed along the best we could and even got in line to receive a blessing from the priest. (We thought we were going to take Communion, too, but I guess we didn’t give the correct hand signal and weren’t offered the sacraments. Whoops.) Our visit was educational, a lesson in reverence and respect for other denominations of our faith.

After Mass, we crossed the street to the LEGO store, which was the coolest. There is a whole cab made of LEGO that the kids could sit in, among other large displays. Then we headed for Rockefeller Center and explored the building, stopping for ice cream at Van Leewen’s and coffee at Blue Bottle. We grabbed some hats and a Christmas ornament of the Rockefeller Center Christmas tree (something that Kelley and I missed purchasing to commemorate our December trip), stopped by Radio City Music Hall (unfortunately, we couldn’t get inside this time but settled for a picture of the kids in front of the sign) and then spent way too much time in FAO Schwarz fawning over adorable stuffed animals.

That evening we found a fantastic mostly-gluten-free restaurant, Friedman’s, near Times Square. The fun thing about this place is that each of their wait staff is a professional singer, so every 15-20 minutes one of them sings a number from a Broadway musical. (Notice the trend? What is with our family and singing waiters?) Our waiter just happened to be from Huntsville, Alabama, and he was by far our favorite singer. The gluten-free chicken and waffles with habanero honey dipping sauce was probably our favorite meal of the trip overall.

After dinner, we ran inside a Target so I could grab some slippers for the hotel (I’d forgotten mine and have a thing about walking barefoot on hotel floors) and then walked through Times Square on the way back to the hotel. To be honest, I’m not a fan of Times Square. There are a lot of shenanigans that happen in this area. A lot of suspect characters roaming around. Complete sensory overload. I was hesitant to walk the kids through what felt like a medieval gauntlet, but Kelley took the lead, and we all survived, though once again, he had to shield me (and Eva this time) from the intrusive lens of a random man with a camera. (Though I guess that’s better than a maze of giant axes swinging from a pendulum.)

Day two, the kids and I headed out toward the Upper East Side in pursuit of gluten-free bagels at Modern Bread and Bagel on Third Avenue. Here, I almost got into it with a woman who cut the line. We were standing in front of the display cases, waiting at least 10-15 minutes on one of the two cashiers to get freed up, when in walks an uppity East Side spinster (I’m profiling, of course), who squeezes past us to stand in front of the register. I guess she can feel the heat from the laser beams shooting out of my eyeballs toward her, because she turns to look at me and asks if we were waiting to be served.

“Yes, we’re in line,” I said quickly.

“Well, the line is usually right here,” she said curtly, to which I shrug and respond, “We aren’t from here; this is our first time in this bakery.”

“You can go first, I guess,” she says in that stereotypical impatient New Yorker fashion, “but the line is right here.”

“That would be great, thanks!” I said, matching her tone and scooting in front of her. “We’ve been waiting a while.”

She waits a minute, and then says, “I’m sorry I was rude.” I don’t think you mean that, I thought, discerning more of that impatient tone in her voice.

“Eh, it’s New York,” I say.

We then started talking about the selection of pastries as if our little tense exchange never happened. The kids each ordered their own selection of bagels (Liam and Eva chose cream cheese, Riley crafter a breakfast bagel with egg and cheese), and I ordered a chocolate babka and a square of rugelach for us to sample. We also tried the coconut French toast sticks with coffee caramel dipping sauce and vanilla coconut custard, which were way too sweet and fell apart when we tried to pick them up. Overall, the kids were happy to have tried an iconic New York City bagel. We tossed the French toast and headed through an East Side neighborhood—where I drooled over the charming architecture and spring blooms—to the Guggenheim Museum, passing the Metropolitan Museum of Art on the way.

This past spring in D.C. the kids attended a couple of special classes offered for homeschoolers at the National Building Museum that highlighted Frank Lloyd Wright’s life and architectural style. We perused the Frank Lloyd Wright room, where we viewed the original plans to his most famous projects, including the Guggenheim Museum in NYC. Naturally, we had to see it in person, so I got us tickets to the museum, where we also attended a lecture on the thought process behind the museum’s unique beehive-esque design. Fun fact: Did you know that Wright originally suggested the Guggenheim be painted bright pink on the outside?

We walked up and down the entire interior ramp, stopping to discuss the various styles and methods of the pieces we passed by. We saw paintings by Renior, van Gogh, Picasso, Degas, Guaguin, and Rousseau, as well as a new contemporary exhibit by Chicago-native artist Rashid Johnson. (We found some of his creations a little creepy, but his canvases made for some funky photo backdrops.) Then after leaving the Guggenheim, we stopped at the Ancient Playground in Central Park to let the kids decompress after a long day of learning before heading back to the hotel. That night, we enjoyed dinner on the patio at La Pecora Bianca, a cute Italian place with gluten-free offerings at Second Ave. and E. 50th.

The morning of day three was a rainy one, so the kids and I headed inside the New York City Public Library to explore their exhibit celebrating the 100th anniversary of The New Yorker magazine. You guys, the details in the Greco-Roman-inspired Beaux-Arts style architecture in this building…there are no words. Every wall, every ceiling was a work of art in itself. Intricate carvings, antique chandeliers, bronze ceilings, painted murals, Vermont marble everything. The kids found a few little hiding nooks under the grand staircase in the main lobby, and we really enjoyed exploring the library, including the children’s section in the extension building across the street, for a couple of hours.

As a journalism major, I geeked out over the The New Yorker exhibit, reading old memos typed on typewriters and reminiscing the old cover illustrations. I fangirled over the Goddess of Grammar memorabilia, honoring copy editor and grammarian Eleanor Gould Packard. Can you imagine having a nickname like that?

Kelley got off work early this day, so we met him for lunch at Slate Cafe down the street from our hotel, and then we decided to get an Uber and explore the Financial District in lower Manhattan, riding by the Brooklyn Bridge along the way. On our list, the One World Trader Center, Oculus, and 9/11 Memorial sites; Wall Street and the New York Stock Exchange; Trinity Church and the resting place of Alexander Hamilton; and Battery Park. We walked by the Charging Bull statue just north of Bowling Green park, but it was so crowded we decided to keep walking, though not before we noted the ridiculously long line of mostly women (and mostly international) waiting to get their pictures taken…grabbing the bull by the balls. I did not know this was a thing. Curiously enough, there were more people lined up behind the bull than were trying to take pictures in front. But I digress.

After Battery Park, we hopped on the free Staten Island Ferry to get a great view of the Statue of Liberty. Just a side note, if you are approached near the waterfront by someone soliciting boat tours of the Statue of Liberty, don’t fall for it. There are plenty of scammers but few official tours. But the ferry is free and provides great views of Lady Liberty.

Of course, on any trip to NYC, you have to pick and choose what you will do; there is simply too much to take in on any one trip. I would have loved to explore the Met, the 9/11 museum, and Ellis Island during our stay, but there was just not enough time.

On our last day in NYC, we were graced with sunshine and warm weather, so we took the kids to Central Park for most of the day before we headed to the train station. We saw most of the highlights before walking to Glace ice cream shop on Madison for ice cream “macwiches”—ice cream sandwiched inside a macaron. I chose the pistachio, Kelley and Eva both tried the Nutella, and the boys had the toasted almond. These were so good that I kid you not, I’ve contemplated driving the four hours to the city just to have another one on multiple occasions since our trip. Is that crazy? I personally don’t think so.

After ice cream, we walked back toward the hotel, stopping at the official New York Yankees club shop for hats and then a hole-in-the-wall New York-style pizza place (Cassiano’s? Little Italy? I can’t remember which one, but it was on 2nd Ave.) that served gluten-free pizza. (Their regular pizza is also outstanding and everything NY pizza should be.) When we returned to the hotel for our bags, we’d already walked about 20,000 steps in the heat, so we caught an Uber to the train station, grabbing some treats from Magnolia Bakery before we hopped on the return train to D.C.

To be honest, the thought of traveling to such a major city with the kids seemed a little daunting at first. I love how adventurous and adaptable our kids are, but it’s a lot of walking (well over 30 miles total in three days), and even more sensory overload, with all of the sirens and car horns and typical sounds of the city, combined with driving rain and of course, the crowds. I was concerned our kids would be exhausted, overstimulated, and stressed trying to navigate such a large city, but I really should have had more faith in them. Of course, after our Philly trip, we attempted to prepare them mentally: “Just expect to walk the most you’ve ever walked in your life, but you’re getting to see NYC, so no complaining!” It was a different experience than a couples-only trip (we spent a LOT of time in toy stores), but experiencing the city through the eyes of our kids was a memory I’ll never forget.

Spring 2025: Philadelphia

If you have spent more than five minutes with me, you probably know how much I love the Rocky movie series. I was probably Eva’s age when I first dreamed of running up the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art just like Rocky Balboa…perhaps even with Rocky Balboa (though multiple attempts to proposition Sly Stallone for a run and a Philly cheesesteak on me were, unfortunately, unsuccessful.)

But this past school year we completed a U.S. Government and Constitution curriculum, and I wanted to take the kids to see in person Independence Hall and the other historical sites we’d studied together. So for Mother’s Day, we spent a long weekend exploring Philadelphia, which culminated in a run up the Rocky steps and a check mark on my bucket list.

Our first day in Philly, we explored Reading Terminal Market and enjoyed gluten-free corn dogs at Fox and Son’s, a charming carnival food booth inside the market. For dinner, I made reservations at The Victor Café, where the restaurant, Adrian’s, that Rocky owned in Rocky Balboa was filmed. The wait staff at The Victor are all professional opera singers, and they take turns singing a number from different famous operas every 20 minutes, so the experience at this cafe includes dinner and a show. The food was delicious, and we ordered the crème brûlée for dessert (the first time the kids and I had ever tried it; it was good, though a little over-caramelized on top). It was gratifying to get dressed up and pretend to be in Rocky’s restaurant for a night. (Okay, I was the only one pretending, but still…)

We dedicated our first full day to all things history, starting with the President’s House, where George and Martha Washington (and briefly John and Abigail Adams) lived, and the Liberty Bell. The bell cracked down the side the very first time it was rung, when the citizens of Philadelphia were summoned to hear the first public reading of the Declaration of Independence. The giant fissure down the side has become a valued part of the bell’s history, and the symbolism of its notoriety coming from its major flaw wasn’t lost on me.

But did you know there was actually another bell, the Justice Bell, designed and commissioned by a woman, Katharine Wentworth Ruschenberger in 1915? The bell’s clapper was chained, preventing the bell from ringing, to represent the silence of women who didn’t have the right to vote. It was loaded in the bed of a pickup truck and taken on a road trip to tour all 67 of Pennsylvania’s counties to raise awareness for the women’s suffrage movement. When the 19th Amendment was ratified in 1920, ensuring women’s right to vote, the Justice Bell was rung 48 times—once for each state in the union—during a celebration on Independence Square in Philadelphia…and it didn’t crack. (Maybe the Liberty Bell should have been designed by a woman, too, but I digress.)

After the Liberty Bell, we toured the cemetery where Benjamin Franklin was buried, along with several other signers of the Declaration of Independence and Revolutionary War heroes. We walked on to the house and burial site of Betsy Ross, the creator of the first American flag. (She’s apparently to credit for the five-pointed stars on the flag; George Washington initially asked for six-pointed ones.)

For lunch, we walked to Oh Brother’s in Old City to cross off another Philadelphia bucket list item, (gluten-free) Philly cheesesteak. We enjoyed the laid-back vibe in this restaurant and the mural of Philadelphia icons on the wall (including mine truly, Rocky Balboa). Then we walked down the block for ice cream at the vintage soda shop, the Franklin Fountain. (I loved how the employees wore bow ties.)

We meandered through the grounds of Christchurch, and then window-shopped our way to our guided tour of Independence Hall.

I’ve mentioned that I’m no historian and didn’t care much for the subject in grade school, but something about standing in the room where the Declaration of Independence was signed made me emotional. To think about a room full of men, prepared to commit treason in their quest to form a more free country, signing the sacred document by candlelight in a humid, stuffy room…well, even I can appreciate that. To see the chair with the rising sun that George Washington sat as the president of the Constitutional Convention—just to be in that same room was special.

We then toured Carpenters’ Hall, where the First Continental Congress met, before exploring the grounds of Benjamin Franklin’s property and print shop. We watched a demonstration of how his printing press worked, and the graphic designer in me totally geeked out before heading back to the hotel for a break.

Saturday evening, we regrouped and walked by the famous LOVE sculpture for a photo op and then walked through the open-air city hall, stopping to wave at strangers in Poland through the portal in the courtyard (yes, this is a thing, and yes, they all waved back!), before heading down S. 12th Street to Sueño for street tacos. The food was delicious, but there was a moment during dinner when we heard loud bangs coming from the street outside and started getting nervous. They grew louder and louder, until a drum trio marched into the restaurant, the beats of their drums ricocheting off the walls, which I could have sworn began to close in on us. “Put down the guns; pick up some drums” was emblazoned on a sign hanging from the front-man’s tom, while the guy in back wore a full Elmo costume. This must have been a local treasure, because a group of girls at the bar began squealing and pulling out their phones, remarking that they’d never been able to see this group in person. The street performers added some excitement, but it freaked out Eva so bad that Kelley had to sit outside with her for the rest of our meal while she calmed down. So if you’re ever in Philly, be on the lookout for the traveling drummers.

Sunday was the icing on the cake for me. Early that morning, we headed down the street to the Philadelphia Museum of Art to run the Rocky steps and see the Rocky statue. I wore my custom-ordered “Win Rocky Win” shirt and played Gonna Fly Now on my iPhone as we walked. Yes, I looked ridiculous, and no, I didn’t care one bit.

There are actually two Rocky statues; the real one, which sat at the top of the front steps of the museum, and another smaller one in a shaded courtyard off to the right at the bottom of the steps. We visited the smaller one first, where a random man stood ready to offer to take our photos. He had the Rocky soundtrack playing on his boombox and had just finished taking photos for another family, so we obliged. For a small cash tip, I got about 40 posed photos of our family in front of the statue.

Then the moment I’d been waiting for finally came.

I had “Gonna Fly Now” cued up to the part in the song where Rocky ran the steps, a gaggle of kids trailing him. Kelley was going to video the kids and me reenacting the scene while the music played, and then I’d return the favor for him. He gave the signal, and we took off, flying up the stairs at maximum speed. We got to the top and jumped up in the air, our fists above our heads. My heart was soaring; I’d played out this moment in my mind repeatedly over the years. Everything had to be perfect, and it was perfect.

Until I turned around and caught a glimpse of Kelley.

He was still at the bottom of the stairs, frantically waving us back. Puzzled, the kids and I descended the steps to meet him. “You’re going to have to redo it; the video didn’t record.”

So we ran it again. I heard the kids coaching each other “not to pass Mom” as I skipped up the steps, which pushed me to pick up the pace, but our second run was a bit slower. The sunny, 30-minute brisk walk to the museum, followed by our first sprint up the 72 steps, had me panting and sweating. Why I thought wearing denim shorts and my hair down were a good idea is beyond my comprehension. At least I looked camera-ready, even if I had sweat dripping down my back and was breathing heavy. But like my favorite quote from Rocky IV, which is emblazoned on the base of the Rocky statue, says, “Going that extra round when you don’t think you can, that’s what makes all the difference in your life.” (Seeing this quote on the statue made me tear up.)

Well, so I got to run the Rocky steps twice. Then Kelley took his turn, and we snapped two dozen more photos with the real statue. I didn’t expect to cry, but as I gazed up at the statue against the brilliant blue sky, the emotions overwhelmed me. I stood in Rocky’s memorialized footsteps and thought about how much this moment truly meant to me. I reminisced about my teenage self, tacking Rocky posters on my bedroom wall for inspiration during my workouts. I remembered holding my Sony Discman as steady as possible, careful not to make my Rocky soundtrack skip as I’d go for runs through my neighborhood. Unwrapping my Rocky box set (on VHS!) the night I graduated from high school.

I thought about the night I walked into the Baptist Student Union at Mississippi State University for a worship team practice and noticed a 2-ft. tall talking Rocky doll standing underneath my mic, a gift from my bassist and friend David, who’d seen the doll on a trip to Philadelphia and thought of me. I’d hosted an all-day Rocky marathon at my apartment my freshman year, and David was one of my friends crowded in our tiny living room. To this day, it’s one of the nicest surprises I’ve ever received; one of the times in my life I felt the most seen.

Getting to share that moment with my family after having watched the movies with the kids this year was so meaningful. (You know, just raising up the next generation of Rocky fans over here.) It was the perfect Mother's Day gift.

We closed out our weekend with fresh-made, gluten-free doughnuts and popcorn chicken from Okie Dokie Doughnuts in South Philly before heading home. (I do not recommend running in the heat and then eating a warm Boston cream doughnut.) Philadelphia felt like a city of hard-knocks; it was dirty, and there were people passed out on park benches and sidewalks from illicit drugs or alcohol, which was heartbreaking to witness. It’s a far cry from the historical gem of America’s past. But as the gritty backdrop for the rags-to-riches underdog story of Rocky Balboa that I love so much, it brings to life the possibility that beauty and resilience can rise from ashes.

Summer 2025—Laissez les bon temp rouler.

I bet you can’t guess where I am right now…

No, I’m not in a dust-covered campground swarming with mosquitoes and summer flies.

I don’t have my feet hanging over a murky, filmy campground pool, wondering what that is lurking on the bottom and if I or one of the kids will end up with an eye infection this summer from whatever that mysterious, blobby object is.

Nor am I hanging off the crowded RV banquette, elbow-deep in schoolbooks trying to simultaneously teach algebraic equations and the life cycle of a newt.

Nope. NOT TODAY.

I am currently in a fluffy white bathrobe, cozy in a downy, king-size bed on the tenth floor of a historical hotel, The Lord Elgin, in Ottawa’s city center, looking out my window over a beautiful park.

BY MYSELF.

No rambunctious kids. No 100-lb ridgeback shedding, drooling, or testing just how many ways he can invade my personal space.

This is so rare that I’d like to take a moment of silence to appreciate the anomaly of my current circumstances.

This week, I tagged along on the Mr.’s work trip to Canada while the kids are enjoying a couple of weeks with family in Mississippi. (The kids are fine: they are catching fireflies and crickets for fishing and playing Scrabble and making forts and swimming in their cousins’ clean pool. Don’t feel sorry for them.)

The first order of business after we checked into our hotel Tuesday was of course to hunt for French pastries at a local bakery, as Ottawa has a heavy French influence. This is the moment where I was kicking myself for not sticking with those French lessons on Duolingo. Très terrible. But honestly, who speaks French in the U.S.? I’ve gotten way more use out of Spanish. (For example, one day inside a public restroom, an English-speaking woman was trying to ask a pregnant Spanish-speaking woman about her baby, and I was able to translate for them: “Tú bebe es un niño o niña?” “Tú estas muy cansada?” I was rather proud of myself.)

Anyway, I tried my best to appear like a local (“Bonjour!" “Merci!”) as I ordered a sandwich and, of course, tiramisu (wait, I thought this was a French bistro…) However, I was very aware that, you know, one of these things is not like the other when we sat at our table and I noticed the very French lady sitting near us.

You know all of those Pinterest links describing life as a French woman and how to be just like her? How to dress like her, how to behave like her, how not to get fat just like her? Well, this woman was the femme modèle. Dressed in sleek, latte-hued trousers in probably a size 2 and a mocha cardigan (it was 80 degrees outside! I guess French women don’t sweat, either), delicate ballet flats and a chic leather bag, her hair pulled neatly into a chignon, daintily sipping soup off a spoon while a croissant the size of a football sat untouched on a side plate. I will never be French. I would have gone straight for the croissant. Suddenly, all I could think about was my wide-width Hokas on my feet and the mess of curls on my head, which was generating the same amount of heat as a wool afghan and expanding by the minute. (Side note: I’ve said for years to Kelley, Why don’t we move to Canada, where it’s colder? It is definitely NOT colder. I haven’t stopped sweating since we stepped off the plane.) My skin was dry from the plane, my rosacea was peeking out from behind the foundation on my cheeks. Even my BBQ chicken sandwich, though hardly the drippy, grotesque mess of the Southern U.S. equivalent, was still very much something an American would order.

Everything about her was très elegant; it was difficult not to stare. She was like a work of art, from her impeccable complexion and smooth hair to her exquisite table manners. Of course, my Aspergers went into full-on masking mode, and I picked at my food just like her. I crossed my ankles (hard to do with sneakers the width of frying pans) and stopped slouching just like her and vowed to dress a little more chic at dinner. At least I was also wearing neutrals—natural linen pants and a black high-neck tank. I’ll give it a 5/10.

After the bakery, Kelley and I (and the French woman) parted ways. (Au revoir, beautiful French woman. You have no idea what kind of mental tailspin you sent me into.) I went meandering passed Parliament Hill and through the quaint downtown area while Kelley headed to work at the Australian chancery. I made my way through the Byway Market and sat on a shaded park bench across from Notre-Dame cathedral, enjoying dreamsicle gelato from a wooden paddle-spoon (yes, my second dessert of the afternoon, don’t judge me) and listening to the unintrusive soundtrack of the neighborhood. As I sat there, a French-ish Canadian man rode up on his bicycle and remarked, “Eating ice cream alone on a park bench in the middle of the afternoon?”

To which I responded, “I prefer it that way!” (How very un-French of me. You can take the girl out of America…)

This, of course, was right before I got kicked out of the American embassy.

To my credit, I did consider this was a reasonable possibility. But a sign mentioning “embassy visitors” was displayed right beside the door, which led me to believe that the embassy did, in fact, allow visitors. I may never be French, but I am American! American, I can do. I waited until I saw a woman in regular street clothes open the door, and I walked in after her. (Surely, she doesn’t work here. She’s wearing white cropped chinos. How very American.)

Immediately, a guard appeared out of thin air. “Is she with you?” He asked the woman, pointing at me. She enthusiastically said no (a little unnecessary, if you ask me. One nation undivided and all that. We’re Americans! We’re all together!), and she briskly walked through the next set of doors. “Let’s talk outside,” the guard said to me, walking back into the sunlight. I followed him, and I KID YOU NOT, the door began to close on me. I squeezed through just before being crushed by the huge, heavy metal automatic door. The guard glanced at me, a little amused and not at all concerned by my near-door-death incident, and waited for me to speak.

Flustered, I flashed my passport at him. “Um, I’m an American! And I just wanted to see if I could take a look inside our embassy? It’s my first time in another country.” I spread my most charming smile across my face.

“I’m sorry, I can’t let you in.”

“What?? But I’m an American (as if that wasn’t painfully obvious yet). I have my passport!”

After a few back-and-forths about the current tumultuous U.S.-Canada relationship and the new no-visitor policy (President Trump, in the words of Avril Lavigne, “Why’d you have to go and make things so complicated?”), I noticed he was moving between me and the door as I was silently sizing up this beanpole of a guard who was clearly younger than me and thinking for a moment that I could probably knock him to the ground and bolt past him to the door without breaking a sweat (if I wasn’t already sweating).

“What if I was in trouble?” I asked. “Could I come in then??” This was an important question I didn’t know I needed answered until that moment, as scenes from The Bourne Identity flashed through my mind.

“Then we would figure it out together. What kind of trouble are you in?” He asked.

Forget it. This wasn’t happening.

“Oh, I’m not in any trouble, sir. I just wanted to look inside our embassy…Can I just peek through the window?” He laughed, clearly amused by my ignorance. This was probably the most human interaction he’d had all day. But he still wasn’t letting me in, so we said our goodbyes, and I walked away, disappointed.

You know, in the movies, you see Americans in other countries going into our embassy like it’s a bank. They walk up to a counter in the lobby with a row of banker-looking clerks and do their business. I was under no impression I could freely walk the halls upstairs, sticking my head into random offices and chatting up dignitaries, but I at least thought I’d make it into the lobby. I took satisfaction in knowing that I had my two feet planted on U.S. ground for the 3.2 seconds I was inside the door, and walked on to the hotel and miraculously took a nap. (I guess it is possible for me to sleep during the day, when the kids and dog aren’t around and I have a gigantic bed all to myself in a quiet, dark room. How curious…)

For dinner, we ate at Brown’s Socialhouse (delicious! best fish and chips I’ve ever tasted—but I bet the French woman would have ordered a salad) before talking a stroll down the riverside path around the Rideau Canal.

Day 2, I treated the hotel like a spa and made good use of the amenities. (I love a good hotel gym.) I woke up late, took my time getting out of bed, drank my superfood greens, and headed to work out in the gym while Kelley was at work. When he returned, we had a late lunch at Starling in the Byway Market, walked around Ottawa, and then crossed the walking bridge into Quebec (where everything’s in French!) just to say we did. (At Starling, I ordered a sandwich with “fries and champagne” as a side. Of course, I interpreted that literally and expected a curious but perhaps whimsical pairing of fries with a glass of champagne. I was surprised when they delivered a poutine-ish bowl of fries topped with cheese curds and a thin, Alfredo-like “champagne sauce”—no sparkly flute. Again, a painful reminder that I am perfect for the role of a clumsy, confused American.)

Also at Starling, we sat next to three men in a business lunch meeting, scheming on how they would convince an L.A.-based tech engineer making an $800K USD salary to take a drastic pay cut and move to Ottawa. “His girlfriend lives in Toronto! We got this in the bag,” they laughed. At the sound of $800K salary, I muttered, “Woah,” under my breath, and the twitchy, rowdy one turned and shot a glance my way. I have so many questions after eavesdropping on that conversation; mainly, how do I get into the tech industry?

On the way back to the hotel, we grabbed some iced coffee and a quick respite from the scorching humidity and direct sunlight at Little Victories coffee shop. Afterwards, I swam some laps in the indoor hotel pool, relaxed my sore muscles in the whirlpool spa after walking 18,000 daily steps AND overdoing it on the treadmill that morning, and then took what felt like the longest shower of my life, not having to worry about the lack of elbow room or hot water as in the RV.

Getting ready for dinner was like the scene in Miss Congeniality where Sandra Bullock undergoes a massive transformation to become pageant-ready, except in my case, we were going to a classically French restaurant, and I needed a do-over from my first bistro experience here. I paired my black square-neck tank and silk high-waist leopard-print skirt with dainty jewelry and a woven clutch. I pulled my makeup inspiration from my be-like-the-French Pinterest board, but I had to use the hotel hair dryer without a diffuser, and there was no way I was wrangling my disobedient curls into a French chignon, so I cut my losses and wore it wild.

Is it possible to fall in love with a restaurant? We sat at a candlelit, velveted semi-circular booth in Cocotte Bistro, and everything about the place was ethereal. I ordered the summer salad (greens, goat cheese, candied pecans, vinaigrette) and the gnocchi with grilled chicken, which had caramelized onions, candied tomatoes, and the most delicious sauce that I could have drunk with a spoon. My mouth is watering just reliving the memory. (Is it dinnertime yet?) For dessert, we shared a crème brulee with fruit, which was divine and just as crème brulee should be.

As I mentioned earlier, this was my first international trip. (How I have never made it out of the country at 41 years old, I have no idea.) I’ve loved every minute of our time in Canada. It is the perfect gateway country: unique in its Canadian loveliness, with enough European influence to make it feel like a distinctly different country, though sharing enough similarities to the United States as not to be a complete culture shock. We didn’t need charging adapters or exchanged currency; paying with a card was seamless (and cheaper in American dollars than Canadian). Thankfully, everyone we interacted with was bilingual, though I did try to speak as much French as I could remember. (And they weren’t impressed or amused one bit. No one cared whether I could thank them in French.)

Here at the end of our trip (our flight leaves this evening), I’ve stopped trying to blend in as a local (as if I ever could have passed for one). This is absolutely not the blog post of an influencer sharing tips for how to pack, dress, travel, speak, or order food like a French-Canadian. I am a tourist; that is the truth, and I will walk in it. I will wear my joggers and sneakers and New York Yankees hat. I’ll carry my valuables in a sling instead of a purse, and I’ll ask questions about (not a-boat!) the menu that I don’t understand. I will fawn over all of the Canadian beauty and dream of moving here (maybe when the weather is cooler). I will stop kidding myself that I can pull off that exquisite French style, but I will not stop drooling over French cuisine. I am absolutely dragging my feet and delaying my hotel check-out until the last possible second, and I will absolutely stop at each pastry stop between here and the airport.

New York, New York.

Probably my favorite thing about our wedding anniversary being in the middle of December is that it feels as if the whole world is celebrating with us. Everything is adorned with twinkling lights and sparkly baubles and fragrant with greenery, wreaths and swags and garland. Mistletoe mischievously drips from doorways, begging those perched underneath to pucker up.

We got married and honeymooned on a youth pastor’s salary in our very early 20s, but it still felt festive. We snagged a little cabin in the mountains outside of Gatlinburg, Tenn., where fresh snow blanketed the ground and sparkling strands of lights hugged the whole town. It was humble, but magical.

This past week, we celebrated our 20th anniversary, and since two decades of marriage seemed like no small victory, we decided to visit New York City for the occasion. Christmastime in the Big Apple has been a bucket list item of mine for as long as I can remember, and it’s only a three-hour train ride from D.C., so this was the perfect year to go.

Our train arrived on a Tuesday afternoon, and we walked our luggage the two miles to our hotel in Midtown East, passing Madison Square Garden, the Empire State Building, the New York Public Library, the elaborate store window displays of Fifth Avenue, and St. Patrick’s Cathedral. Once we dropped our bags at the hotel, we ventured out to perhaps the one thing I was most excited to see, the iconic Rockefeller Christmas tree.

There’s just something so special about that tree. I think my love for it dates back to the first time I watched Home Alone 2, in which nine-year-old Kevin McAlister tearfully reunites with his mother in front of that tree. The rows of angels blowing their horns leading up the walkway of the plaza are simply stunning. I may or may not have teared up as I gazed at the bundle of lights and evergreen towering over me, a faithful symbol of Christmas wonder. Being the week before Christmas, the area was a madhouse, but we managed to have a sweet moment in front of the tree as an older couple took our picture. (I’ve always heard that when you are allowing a stranger to use your phone, you should select someone you know you can outrun. So yeah, that’s what we did.) We decided not to attempt ice skating at the rink below (no one needed a broken ankle on this trip), but it was amusing to watch the bundled up skaters gliding across the ice.

After Rockefeller Plaza, we moseyed over to Times Square, just to say we did. It was immediate sensory overload, and I was both taken aback and a little flattered when a complete stranger tried to take my picture while Kelley and I were walking along the sidewalk. (Kelley threw his coat up in front of me to block the camera shot, while I resisted the urge to thank the guy for deeming this 41-year-old mom of three a worthy subject.) Besides, the women with the bare backsides flanking a dressed up Spiderman down the way would have made for much better pictures, I’m sure.

We quickly made our way through Times Square and on to the Bryant Park Christmas market, where we watched more ice skaters and perused the pop-up trinket shops. Then, we walked through Grand Central Station to sample some Doughnut Plant doughnuts. (We shared the vanilla bean and the blueberry cake; neither of them disappointed.) On our way back to the hotel, we stopped in a hidden gem of a pizza parlor, La Bellezza Pizzeria, for a traditional New York slice.

On Wednesday morning, we went to an excellent little spot called The Smith for brunch before we attended the Radio City Rockettes’ Christmas Spectacular (a Christmas gift from our dear friends and adopted family in Pennsylvania). The Smith has a clean, modern vibe and some of the best miniature biscuits with honey butter I’ve ever tasted. We ordered the herbed omelettes with breakfast potatoes, and it was so delicious that we went back for breakfast the morning we left NYC.

The Rockettes’ Christmas show was, in fact, spectacular. Every bit of it, from the grand art deco architecture of Radio City Music Hall to the remote controlled frost fairies floating above our heads to the kickline finale. The show was riveting from beginning to end, but perhaps the most moving part of all was their rendition of the Christmas story. They introduced the three kings of Orient (or the three wise men, or Magi, whatever you want to call them) by name and location, and they described the gifts each king presented to Jesus and why those items were so meaningful: gold, for the new King; frankincense, for the high Priest; and myrrh, for the great Healer. They led live camels in their caravan, and live sheep and a donkey took their places in the nativity scene, where the kings, shepherds, and angels surrounded and worshipped the new King Jesus RIGHT THERE IN RADIO CITY MUSIC HALL. It was such a touching moment that I cried as I secretly took video footage of the elaborate, reverent display. The show was the highlight of our trip, and we were so grateful we had the opportunity to attend.

That night, we dressed up and celebrated our anniversary with an authentic Italian dinner at Toscana 49 and swooned over their homemade tiramisu and ricotta cheesecake for dessert. It was really a beautiful place, the cherry on top to our perfect anniversary. (Side note: it sure is a lot easier to be fancy on vacation when you do not have three kids and a 100-lb. dog in tow, and I made sure to document this fact, so when I’m feeling particularly stay-at-home-momish at our RV campground, I can remember a time when I looked a little more put together. Another pleasantry of this trip.)

On Thursday we enjoyed hand-rolled bagels from Ess-A-Bagel before meandering around most of Central Park and Bloomingdales before heading to Serendipity 3. (A word about the bagel place; it’s fantastic, and the bagels are delicious. Meaning: if you ever go, GET THERE EARLY to avoid the endless line that will inevitably spill outside the door and wrap around the corner. I ordered a breakfast sandwich on an everything bagel and a cinnamon raisin bagel with rosemary fig cream cheese. Oh, and a black-and-white cookie. And then I ate them like it was my job.)

This was our biggest walking day (taking public transit or ride sharing or Uber, etc., is pointless in NYC during the holidays; the streets are practically a parking lot). We saw the iconic Bow Bridge, Belvedere Castle, the Alice and Wonderland and Balto statues (and snapped some pictures for the kids), the Central Park Rangers, Turtle Pond, the Friends fountain, and everything in between. Then, we headed to Bloomingdales, where I bought a small box of Godiva chocolates that was on sale just so I could have the little brown bag. (Kelley offered to snag me a bag for free when the clerk wasn’t looking, but walking around with an empty one just seemed a little sad, so I bought the one thing I could afford in that store. And yes, I realize the silliness of this behavior, but it’s the little brown bag! When in Rome…)

The Bloomingdales Santa Clause, with his original emerald suit, took my breath away and immediately transported me back to my childhood, where I giddily grinned as he caught my eye and waved at me with his snow-white-gloved hand. It was a total MOMENT, and I’ll never forget it. I almost regret not getting my picture with him, but for one, I imagine that would have been an awkward social scenario that I was not prepared for, and two, our little moment was entirely sufficient, maybe even better.

Next came Serendipity. Yes, I’m a sucker for the movie, and yes, I realize this is probably an utterly basic white girl thing to do, but I don’t care in the least. The frozen hot chocolate was delicious (though the food was a little average, in my opinion), and it wasn’t until we were on the train back to D.C. watching Serendipity that we realized we sat at the exact same table Kate Beckinsale and John Cusack (and Molly Shannon) sat at in the movie, complete with the white-mantled fireplace and everything. It wasn’t even supposed to be our table, but one of the hosts sat another couple before us by accident, and we got rerouted, pretty auspiciously if you ask me, to Kate and John’s table. (I’m assuming that because I’ve sat where they have, we’re on a first-name-basis now.)

That evening we walked to Macy’s on W. 34th and enjoyed riding those antique wooden escalators (which were hard to figure out where you needed to place your foot, and I pulled a Buddy-the-Elf escalator maneuver more than once) all the way up to the ninth floor. We weren’t able to see Santaland; unfortunately, we didn’t realize you needed a reservation, but the whole store was still glitzy and glamorous, and it was fun to explore the indoor Christmas market and old replicas of past Macy’s floats. Then we tried a bouncy cheesecake from Keki’s Modern Cakes in Koreatown before having dinner at another slam dunk Italian place, Barolo East, near our hotel. (Basically, we just ate our way through Midtown on this trip and pretended like we’d never heard the words “gluten intolerance” before in our lives.)

On Friday, before we headed back to Penn Station, we ate breakfast (again!) at The Smith. So, cute little story, we asked for additional biscuits on our first visit (as we should!), but they were out of them. So, on Friday, we asked our waiter for some extra biscuits (they really are THAT good, y’all, and so tiny that you don’t feel bad eating more than one). Our waiter apparently ran into our first waitress, and she mentioned that we’d been in there before and requested (unsuccessfully) extra biscuits. So our waiter brought us a to-go bag with a container of biscuits and two containers of the honey butter as our consolation. He also brought us complimentary mimosas because we mentioned we were in town celebrating a milestone anniversary. Both visits, the food was excellent, and I would 100 percent recommend this establishment to anyone visiting Midtown Manhattan.

It started snowing that morning, and our train was delayed, so we headed to the station earlier than planned (by several hours) just to get out of the cold. Kelley decided to ask the attendant if an earlier train was available, and luckily, we were able to board one about three minutes later. I guess you could say it was serendipitous. (Wink, wink.)

This was by far the best trip we’ve ever taken as a couple (though there have been so few I could count them on one hand). The past two decades have not been easy, though what marriage ever is? We married when we were just a couple of kids; the downside of that is I can at least say for myself that I didn’t fully know who I was at 20 years old, and this led to some tumultuous times. But the beautiful upside of marrying young is that you get to grow up (and old) together. We have quite a few silvery white hairs on our heads and some delicate lines around our eyes now, but we fought to earn them and proudly display them as battle scars. We’ve been through a lot as a couple (who hasn’t?), but we’ve stood solidly beside one another, and it’s the challenges and trials that refine and deepen a marriage. Through it all, we’ve been able to hold fast to joy, be led forward together by peace, and are building a family that is the greatest gift we can be sure we don’t deserve.

Week in review: Library of Congress, Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture, and the U.S. Capitol

I’ve had this recurring dream for more than a decade that, after years of working as a professional adult, I learn that I never passed my high school Early American History class, and therefore my high school diploma and college degree are invalid. And so I scramble, trying to figure out how to re-take the class and earn my credentials. It’s a terrifying dream, and I always shake myself awake, dripping in sweat.

History was by far my worst subject in school; all the dates and people and wars and treaties and acts…it was all so overwhelming, and my brain could not keep the information straight. Basically every history class I ever took required a certain amount of negotiations with my instructors to convince them I deserved a good grade based solely on the amount of effort I put into studying, even if my tests didn’t reflect that effort. And the longer we live in the D.C. metro area, the more I realize just how much I missed out on in my American history classes growing up. This city is fascinating, and there is so much history to discover that it makes my head spin. This week, we explored more of our nation’s capital on two separate field trips, and I learned just as much as the kids about our government and history. Turns out, all I needed was a good field trip or two.

Tuesday, the kids and I spent the day in D.C. We first toured the Library of Congress, and then after enjoying lunch at sweetgreen, a fresh salad-bar spot, we walked nearly two miles to spend the couple of hours we had left introducing ourselves to the National Museum of African American History and Culture.

The Library of Congress was impressive in its stature and architectural details, but the one downside was that we visited on a Tuesday; this meant that the one reading room kids under the age of 16 are allowed into wasn’t even open. I didn’t understand this when reading the library’s Web site, because though the site says its Young Readers Center and Programs Lab is available Wednesday through Saturday, it also states that children can actually read book in the Children’s Collection, so I thought those were two different things. It was disappointing to learn upon arrival that the kids wouldn’t be able to see the children’s area at all, but we were still able to tour the Main Reading Room, which is available at specific times on a limited basis. It was a quick tour; we couldn’t touch anything and no one was allowed to speak. (I think it’s the quietest my kids have ever been.) There wasn’t a guide explaining details about the room. We walked in, circled the center walkway, and walked right back out (but not before I sat my kids on a bench in front of the huge wall clock and snapped their photo!).

We found a guide in the Great Hall who was more than happy to give the children a quick history lesson and some insight into the features of the library, including all the unusual baby carvings adorning the staircases. (Each one has a “job” and is holding or surrounded by objects that provide clues as to what that job is—farmer, teacher, printer, etc.) We enjoyed seeing the Gutenberg Bible, and understanding the significance of the printing process in distributing copies of the Bible into the hands of common citizens. We perused Thomas Jefferson’s library and watched a video about the importance of photography in history in the Southwest Gallery. We saw the first map ever printed with America labeled on it—“our nation’s birth certificate, if you will,” the library volunteer remarked. A gentleman from Egypt was studying the map and explained to us the history of his region and how he couldn’t recognize any of the names of the surrounding countries because they were in Latin and from “a long, long time ago.”

I, for one, could not get over the intricate mosaic tile floors, and found myself (as I typically do) photographing the floors more than the artifacts in such buildings. The Italian Renaissance Beaux-Arts style architecture really is something to behold, and it’s always amazing to me how these buildings were constructed with such elaborate detail.

After the Library of Congress, we grabbed a quick bite before walking to the African American History and Culture Museum. This building, located on the corner facing the White House and the Washington Monument, has always caught my eye when walking down the streets near the Mall. It’s absolutely stunning, and the inside is even more so.

We only had two hours inside the museum, and we barely made it halfway through the concourses on the bottom floor that highlight the earliest African-American history. We took our time, reading all of the displays and discussing each one. A lot of the information presented in the first exhibit was material we’d already studied in school multiple times, but the museum really brought history to life, and I was determined not to brush past any of the displays or treat any of it as common. As a white, Christian family with ancestry rooted in enslavement of African-Americans, our role at this museum was to lament, to grieve, to resolve to fight for progress. It was emotionally gripping, to say the least. I understand the reason there is a contemplative court, a large room with a cascading waterfall and fountain where individuals can catch their breath, reflect, and process all of the information before moving on from the history galleries. After just two hours in the history collections, including spending some time in the Emmett Till Memorial Room, we needed it. And as the court was half-full, I recognized that we weren’t the only ones.

We also enjoyed the music collection in the Culture Galleries on the fourth level before we left the museum, where we saw priceless memorabilia from the likes of James Brown, Jimmi Hendrix, Louis Armstrong, Aretha Franklin, and the Jackson Five, just to name a few. We also made sure to set our eyes on the Black Panther costume, of course.

Yesterday, our entire family scheduled a tour of the U.S. Capitol. We had an amazing tour guide named Charlie, and we were able to see the original Supreme Court room (where they met in the 1800s), the Rotunda, the Crypt, and the National Statuary Hall, or the “Old Hall of the House,” where the House of Representatives originally met.

The Rotunda is of course breathtaking, with its beautiful paintings, statues, and architectural details. We craned our necks to view the cast iron dome ceiling’s The Apotheosis of Washington 180 feet up, painted in the fresco technique by Constantino Brumidi in 1865. The mural is beautiful, but as in the Library of Congress, where there are impressively built brazen images of Roman gods and goddesses, I wrestle with the idea of elevating our first president to the rank of a god (which is what apotheosis actually means). It baffles me why we glorify our historical figures to that magnitude, even considering their contributions to our nation…but I digress.

In the Crypt, Charlie explained that the plethora of sandstone columns (40 total) were in fact built to the support the structure of the Rotunda above it, weighing millions of pounds. Charlie took a moment to point out the markings of hand tools on the columns, which were constructed by enslaved labor. We took a moment of silence to honor those who built the Crypt, literally with their bare hands, and in remorse for the fact that enslaved people were forced to build our nation’s symbol of a nation for its people, called to be free.

It’s called “the Crypt” because it was originally intended to sit atop the burial sites of George and Martha Washington; however, they remained buried at their home at Mount Vernon. In the center of the room is a white marble “compass stone” that marks the exact center of Washington, D.C., where the four quadrants it was divided into actually meet. The Capitol features two statues submitted from each state in our nation; the Crypt houses 13 statues, from the original 13 colonies.

The resounding message of the Capitol tour was that this building was built for the people, where our representatives and senators work to further the interests of the people of this nation. This is our Capitol, Charlie repeated frequently. It was built for us. But what does that mean, exactly? That we should trust our lawmakers have our best interests at heart? That when those interests seem compromised, we can storm the doors of the Capitol and wreak havoc on our own house? Or that we should find ways to engage with our leaders more regularly rather than sticking our heads in the sand and leaving the policies to the professionals?

Honestly, there’s a lot to unpack here for me personally. It’s hard to marvel over marble and stone when I know the hands that touched it were in shackles. It’s hard to stand in awe of our leaders and decision-makers, when I know that back-door, underhanded political games take place within these walls. I wrestle so much with our nation’s dark history, mingled with a solemn appreciation for the men (and women, enslaved and free), who built this country. Their decisions and actions are grievous and horrifying at times, but they also showed tremendous courage and resilience. And so I’m learning to accept our nation for what it is: a hot mess. (No, just kidding.) It’s ever-evolving, complex, imperfect. It’s a beautifully diverse land with a complicated, messy history, working out its redemption the best way it knows how, growing and learning along the way. And I’m learning right along with it.


D.C. lately.

We just reveled in a couple of weekends of incredible autumn colors here in the D.C. metro area, and those humid, sultry days have been replaced by fresh sunny breezes and chilly evenings. The leaves are so vibrant they appear to be ablaze in the sunlight, and daily they fall like confetti to create a crunchy blanket covering the ground. Yesterday, the kids and I spent the afternoon with rakes and clippers clearing out the campground’s walking trail in the woods surrounding the property. I’m thrilled to have such a beautiful spot to hike in nature right in my backyard.

Our family has had some enjoyable outings exploring the nation’s capital since we moved here, so I thought I would summarize them all here in a quick recap:

THE WHITE HOUSE

Our family was invited along with the Australian embassy staff to the official arrival ceremony for the Australian prime minister, Anthony Albanese. We awoke while it was still dark, dressed in our nicest business attire, and scurried along Pennsylvania Avenue to go through multiple security checkpoints to stand on the south lawn with hundreds of others, waving our miniature Australian and United States flags and tiptoeing to catch glimpses of the diplomat with President Biden.

What was most memorable to me about the experience was how excited the Australians were to be at the White House, even appearing more so than the Americans. It gave me some food for thought for the day, and I gained a renewed sense of gratitude to live in the U.S. As dysfunctional as our country can be at times, it’s still a place I’m grateful to live, and I appreciate our international partners who’ve stood by our side for the long haul. In this current world climate, no ally is insignificant.

THE EMBASSY OF AUSTRALIA

After the arrival ceremony at the White House, Kelley walked us inside the embassy for a quick tour of his office. We were able to snap a few pictures of the kids, since they were dressed up so nicely (this was the boys’ first time wearing suits), and then we perused the Aboriginal and Indigenous Australian artwork and met some more of his coworkers. The Australians are extraordinarily warm and welcoming! And I basically want to move in to this stunning mid-century modern building, or at least model our next home after it. The Pacific Northwest vibes made me giddy!



ARLINGTON NATIONAL CEMETERY

The same week of the arrival ceremony, we were also invited to attend P.M. Albanese’s wreath hanging ceremony at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at Arlington National Cemetery. What an absolute humbling experience to walk through the unending rows of white marble tombstones, knowing each one represents a name, a person, a life given to protect the freedom my family enjoys. Before our visit, the kids and I spent an afternoon learning about the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier—the history behind the monument, the intense training and preparation the soldiers go through to become guards, the rituals they perform around the clock, how fiercely they protect the tomb. It’s all so intense and beautiful. We were honored to witness a foreign leader pay tribute to the unknown soldiers around the world who laid down their lives for others.

INTERNATIONAL SPY MUSEUM

Be forewarned: the International Spy Museum is a sensory nightmare. Cool? Absolutely. But also, five minutes in, I couldn’t breathe.

I purchased a family membership and we arranged our first visit for Liam’s birthday. I added on a birthday kit, which was full of everything we would need to go on a secret group mission through the museum. (And it came with fake mustaches!) But the museum experience already included a secret virtual mission, so now we had two to keep track of.

Let me back up a little…Our stress started when we tried to fit our giant extended length Ford Expedition into a tiny side-street parking lot. Then, we got turned around walking to find the building and then its entrance (listen, that part of D.C. is CONFUSING and there are LAYERS of streets involved), and I had drunk a bottle of water and travel mug of coffee, so I needed to pee so bad I was sweating. By the time we got to the building I was hot, irritable, and overstimulated from the traffic noise. So, when I was handed a drawstring backpack full of reading material that I was to digest in the 2.3 minutes we had before our ticket call time, I was sweating for a whole other reason. And my family was in a hurry. I frantically tried to rally the troops to decide on our group cover story as we were walking toward the elevator with a group of people. Immediately when we stepped off the elevator, we had to grab badges and get started on our cover for the museum tour. And not only did I have my own information to memorize, I also had to quickly memorize the kids’ as well (WHY ARE MOMS THE KEEPERS OF ALL THE INFORMATION??). The first 20 minutes of our visit was just more of that. Add in the changing, flashing lights and ambient and crowd noises and bodies, and my sensory-challenged brain began shutting down.

Thankfully, my husband made the executive decision to save the birthday mission for another day, after we’d toured the building and gained our bearings, and we slowed our pace waaaay down. I was able to reunite with my body and enjoy the museum.

This place is actually really cool and filled to the brim with intriguing information. I highly recommend a visit, and if you’re a family like ours and plan to go more than once, the family annual membership will more than pay for itself. (It already has for us after two visits.)

SMITHSONIAN NATIONAL AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM

Okay, so we didn’t actually have a lot of time to spend in this one (or energy, as we dropped in this museum after our day at Arlington National Cemetery and visit to the Spy Museum), but it’s on our list to revisit because it is so cool! We spent most of our time in the Wright Brothers exhibit and at the Pan Am display, after spending a solid 20 minutes in one of the museum’s “quiet rooms” in the basement so we could rest our legs and gain a second wind. (You can see how tired they were in the last photo.) My favorite part was seeing the actual first plane that Wilbur and Orville Wright created.

SMITHSONIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY

This has by far been my favorite part about D.C. We visited this museum after watching Night at the Museum with the kids. (We also stopped by the National Archives to see the original Declaration of Independence after watching National Treasure, so I guess we’re starting a trend.)

My first time ever in D.C. was back in May when we visited after Kelley’s job interview in Pennsylvania, and I still cannot get over how beautiful the buildings are here. The architecture is exquisite; I kept getting distracted from the exhibits by the marble mouldings and breathtaking rotundas. The only thing more breathtaking was the Hope Diamond, which I didn’t know existed until our visit, when I realized I was on the wrong side of the glass that encased the 45-carat rock. If only they allowed try-ons! “Yes, I’ll try the Hope Diamond with the Marie Antoinette Earrings and the Indian emerald necklace, please…”



SMITHSONIAN ZOO

Honey, you had me at free zoo. Ok, so it doesn’t hold a candle to say, the San Diego or Memphis zoos, but who doesn’t love walking around a zoo? We came to the D.C. zoo on our Pennsylvania trip, but the kids and I returned recently (after our White House visit) to say goodbye to the Smithsonian’s pandas, which are heading back to China in December. The only ones left in the U.S. will be at the Atlanta Zoo until the end of 2024, so if you live in the states and wanted to see a panda in-person, you’re running out of time. Goodbye, sweet Mei Xiang. Ta ta, Tian Tian. See you later, Xioa Qi Ji.

I was a little sad watching the pandas gorge themselves into a sleepy stupor on bamboo in their individual cages. I always loved seeing the different types of bears at the zoo as a kid (sloth and polar bears are my personal favorite). I hate to think that this may be the last time our kids can watch the pandas at a zoo, though it’s nice to know the Smithsonian zoo has played a pivotal role in restoring the panda population through its conservation efforts.


AROUND THE CITY

Over the past few months, we’ve also been able to see the Lincoln Memorial, the Potomac waterfront, and the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History. Kelley and I attended a James Bond-themed black tie event at the embassy. It took me four hours to get ready and resembled the scene in Miss Congeniality in which Sandra Bullock was getting transformed into pageant-ready Gracey Lou Freebush. This is DEFCON-1, guys! Bring out the sandblaster. Grab the shellac! I bought a $40 dress on Amazon and pulled my pearls and heels out of storage. And then the dress got a hole in it when I cut the tag out of the seam, and Kelley had to sew me up right as we were heading out the door. But we were handed a free glass of champagne at the door and enjoyed chatting up the Aussies.

We’ve been apple picking in the countryside, seashell hunting in the Chesapeake Bay, and people watching at the recreational park down the road. We love spotting the Washington Monument or the Capitol dome peaking out at us above the buildings when we drive downtown. History was always my worst subject in school, but being in our nation’s capital really makes it come alive, and I find I’m learning just as much as the kids. Can’t wait to explore more!

Waiting and trusting and praying and hoping.

Sleet stung my face like microscopic darts of freezing fire. It was as if the sky was as brokenhearted as I was to be leaving Oregon, our home. I stood impatiently, hopping from one foot to the next, generating as much body heat as possible under my thin raincoat in that storage unit parking lot, watching Kelley help a local stranger hook up our travel trailer to his truck. I fumbled with my phone in the freezing rain, freezing droplets dotting the screen as I electronically transferred the funds to pay our deposit. With every drop of sleet, I grew more agitated, more desperate. I prayed silently, Lord, please keep our home safe. Please let this man be trustworthy…

It was two months ago that Kelley and I drove to Portland from Mississippi to load up the rest of our belongings that had been sitting in storage, abandoned in boxes for months—kitchenware and bikes and hope of a future still to come in the Pacific Northwest. We met a guy who would haul our RV across the country to where we have been visiting family. We loaded our boxes into a small Uhaul trailer. We ate our favorite Portland foods and hugged our friends’ necks and cried through excruciating goodbyes. Goodbye, Douglas firs. Goodbye, snow-capped mountains. Goodbye, food trucks. Finally, we traveled more than 3,000 miles over three days, dodging weather hazards by driving south to L.A. and then eastward to meet three freckled, smiling faces who awaited us in Mississippi.

It was a step of faith. Kelley had just finished his third interview for a job in Nashville, Tennessee, and we were waiting to hear back on next steps. We felt excitement about the opportunity and had agreed that it was time to say goodbye to Oregon, to start a new life elsewhere in the country, so this was a way to put action to our faith.

As we welcomed the new year in 2022, my prayer was that the Lord would strengthen our faith. It was not enough that I have faith in Jesus, faith that He hears and answers my prayer; I wanted to experience what Scripture means when it says the righteous will live by faith. Day-to-day, hour-by-hour, minute-by-minute total dependence on the Holy Spirit to guide us, on our Heavenly Father to provide for us.

This seems like an ancient notion, an overspiritualization, especially in America with all our grit and determination and resources and self-sufficiency. Even our contingencies have backup plans. But I began to see in Scripture that perhaps that kind of faith, the kind of faith that plans for what will happen if God doesn’t come through, isn’t really faith at all. When uncovered, Fear is there, hovering in the shadows, calling the shots, demanding that we be practical, responsible.

So, I prayed for big faith. Bold faith. Manna from Heaven, daily bread, mountain-moving kind of faith. (I can be a little intense at times.) I wanted the kind of faith that honors God. The kind of faith that astounded Jesus when he encountered the woman with the bleeding disorder or the centurion with the dying child. And the only way to really grow that kind of faith is to exercise it. Even at the risk of appearing very, very foolish.

The past nine months have been a masterclass in faith-building. After more than a year of sensing that God was asking us to leave our workplace without something else lined up, we finally did. We prayed for God’s will, and we removed ourselves and our plans and our strategies out of the way with one sweeping motion to make room for Him to move. We sold most of our belongings, bought a travel trailer, and traveled with our kids full-time for a sabbatical. Then we waited.

And waited.

And waited.

Oh, we had an opportunity that we thought would be waiting for Kelley back in Portland after the summer; then that was put on hold indefinitely. I had a maybe-opportunity to do some freelance graphic design for a former coworker, but that also was delayed.

So we waited some more.

We put our RV in storage and drove to Mississippi to spend the first holiday season in four years with family. We reconnected with friends in the South that we hadn’t seen since our move to Oregon four years ago. I homeschooled our children with half of our schoolbooks still in storage across the country. We lived for several months straddling the continental United States, with one foot in Oregon and the other in Mississippi, just trying to keep our balance.

Kelley interviewed for a position with our previous church in Birmingham, but after learning some of the stipulations of the job and experiencing the rather dodgy, cryptic interview process, we had more red flags than peace about taking the job and returning to a megachurch, and he took himself out of the running. Even when the interviewer tried to persuade him to reconsider, he said no—with nothing but faith that God would come through for us and provide something better suited for our family.

And we waited some more.

I’ve learned that faith is very much a waiting game, which feels very lazy and irresponsible for my type-A personality. Kelley and I are get-er-doners. We’re doers, not dilly-dalliers. We’re workers, not waiters. And being that way has very much left us exhausted and empty and trying to bless ourselves with what little we had because we acted too soon.

This time, we made a pact that we would not make a decision based on fear that God won’t meet our needs, that He won’t come through with something better than just scraping by. There have been a couple of job offers that Kelley has passed up because they weren’t what we actually needed, even when people were telling us that a job that doesn’t pay well is better than no job at all. That hasn’t been our experience—quite the opposite, actually—so we’ve held out, believing with everything within us that our Father gives good gifts, that the Creator of the universe can and will create what is needed out of thin air. His supply is unlimited. His economy is fireproof.

Counting on this, we’ve been finding ways to put action to our faith, wait with expectation. And a couple of months ago, it came to us.

Over the few months that we’ve been in Mississippi, we’ve been wracking our brains trying to figure out the best way to move our RV across the country. We learned this summer that our vehicle really didn’t have the capacity for a haul that extensive. Rental haulers were two-way and too expensive. We researched multiple options, and each one seemed worse than the last.

But one day, he came in contact with a man who worked as a hauler, who just so happened to be making a trip to Arkansas from his home in Oregon to purchase a trailer for his business. He was looking for something to transport to the South to cover his travel expenses, and he was leaving that next week. He offered to haul our RV for less than half what everyone else was quoting, less than it would have cost to do it ourselves. It was a divine opportunity, mutually beneficial, so we agreed to it.

A few days after that conversation, and after his third interview with the company in Nashville, I suggested that we just go get the rest of our stuff. We’ll have to move it anyway. Let’s go get it in faith that God is providing our next steps, in preparation and expectation for Him to move in our lives.

So we did. We moved across the country for a second time, saying goodbye to a very different Portland than the one we moved to, still with just enough belongings to fit in a small UHaul. Then I washed and changed our sheets in the RV and cleaned it top to bottom. We started organizing and getting ready for a move.

It never came.

After two months of radio silence from the company in Nashville despite Kelley’s efforts to reach out, he received an email from the recruiter. They were pursuing an internal candidate instead.

What the…?

I wish I could write a better outcome to this story, but it’s still to be continued. Along the way, we’ve felt frustrated and confused, anxious and defeated. We’ve questioned our decisions. We’ve sought advice. Did we miss the mark? Did we really hear from Him?

But the entire time, that still small voice keeps whispering to everyone in our inner circle, “Trust Me.” And what choice do we have, really? Where else would we place our trust? We know our limitations in this process. We know where we fall short, how ill equipped we are to just make something happen in a job market where layoffs and downsizing are everywhere. We have no other option but to trust Him to come through. He’s done it before, and He’ll do it again. I’m certain of it.

Trust Me.


So we do. We trust Him. We are standing on the words He’s spoken. We’re holding Him to His promises. We’re modeling for our kids what it means to live by faith. We are watching Him provide for our needs in miraculous ways and thanking Him for the blessings in the waiting.

Two weeks in.

Since our first two weeks in the RV are in the rearview mirror, I thought I’d answer some common questions and recap how it’s going and what we’ve learned so far about RV travel:

  • RVing is dirty. Seriously, there is dirt everywhere. That has been enhanced by the fact that we have a dog and three kids. One of our first purchases so far has been a vacuum (a battery-operated, pet-specific Dyson that disassembles for easy storage), and we pretty much use it every day. The broom just wasn’t cutting it; besides, we are constantly using the broom to sweep off our outdoor rugs. Our daughter perpetually looks as if she’s been eating dirt. Our white towels are quickly becoming dingy, and no amount of bleach can counteract it. Cleaning is a constant thing.

  • RVing is a lot of work. Don’t let Instagram fool you. What we #vanlifers and #RVlifers don’t show is the lengthy set-up and tear-down process every time we move to a new location. Hauling laundry to the on-site facility or an off-site laundromat every few days because you don’t have much space to store dirty laundry. How you have to empty your tanks almost every time five family members take showers. There is a lot of technical work involved, and most of it goes over my head. Thankfully, the Mr. likes to research and is figuring it out as we go.

  • One of the concerns brought up to us is how our kids will adjust to being cramped inside an RV all the time. “Kids need a yard to play in,” they’ve said. I give you Exhibit A.

  • But does it feel like home? Actually, so far, yes. We’ve learned that home is wherever we are together. Wherever we lay our heads and hang our proverbial hats. I love the challenge of making a place, however big or small, feel like a cozy, comforting abode. It doesn’t matter whether we are on top of wheels or a slab foundation. For us, home isn’t defined by the amount of square footage or material possessions we have. It’s the people who live there with us who make it feel like home sweet home.

  • If you want to see what your marriage is made of, go on a road trip together. This is advice my best friend gave me before we left our apartment, and she has never been more right. Spending 24 hours a day together in a constantly changing environment will teach you all the things about yourself and your spouse/partner. For example, I’ve learned that the Mr.’s idea of rest is almost the complete opposite of mine. He decompresses by sitting around chilling, and I de-stress best with tough, physical activity. Our parenting styles are different. Our travel styles are different. Our methods of cleaning/organizing/strategizing are all different. So we’re having to learn how to be one as a married couple while maintaining a sense of autonomy. But whatever doesn’t kill us will only make us stronger…right??

  • I’ve never had to care more about how much our stuff weighs. We spend 20 percent of our time enjoying the RV, and the other 80 percent calculating and balancing the weight of everything in our travel trailer. (Those numbers are completely made up, but you get the idea.) Since we aren’t just vacationing—we’ve technically moved in—we brought a lot of things from our home that we use on a daily basis. But switching out the standard RV mattress for our organic Avocado hybrid mattress and topper added a lot of weight to the trailer, and our Expedition has a finite towing capacity, so we’re having to compensate somewhere. Anybody want a set of cast iron cooking pans? Or a 65-lb ridgeback pup and his heavy duty crate? (I’m kidding…kind of.) Which brings me to my next point…

  • Traveling with a dog is HARD. Well, probably traveling with a maltipoo or a pug isn’t. But traveling with a large-breed, naturally protective, athletic hound dog is. One who is technically a teenager and kind of a jerk sometimes. One who always wants to be where his humans are at all times and in every situation. He is sweet, but he’s clingy. And right now his massive self and his crate take up the majority of our floor space. He can reach the kitchen counter and wants to stick his nose in the flame of the gas stove, or lay his head on our dining table to beg for food. We had to eat lunch in our car yesterday while on the road because it was too hot to leave him in it while we dined inside, and we couldn’t take him in a restaurant. So, having a dog complicates everything. He’s mostly worth it.

  • Campgrounds are a generally safe way to allow our kids to have some independence and show responsibility. They have to keep their belongings organized and out of the way. They have to pitch in and help prepare for travel days. Liam wakes early to take the dog out in the mornings. They have to stay together and practice safety protocols when they run off to the playground together. They are learning to identify and avoid danger and respond appropriately to inappropriate people. (Like the little girl who threatened to hurt Eva with a knife or the boy who announced he’d love to meet Satan. Never a dull moment on those campground playgrounds.) At the last campground, the boys practiced communication and business skills by pitching their horse-stall mucking services to the manager at the adjacent horseback riding attraction, and then learned how to handle rejection appropriately when the lady said no.

  • Each campground is different, and not every one will be an amazing stay. Our Thousand Trails membership has been a great value so far. For about the price of three months’ rent in Portland, we have access to more than 200 campgrounds nationwide with full hookups and many amenities at no nightly fee. We can stay up to 21 days at each campground and move park-to-park with no downtime in between, for life. However, not every campground has a resort feel. The last campground we stayed in felt more like a cramped parking lot than an RV resort. A couple of campgrounds haven’t had sewer hookups, which requires more work for us. But for the most part, the parks we’ve stayed in have been safe, relaxing, and fun. Our current campground includes a mile-long walking trail, two pools, a fitness center, playgrounds, a dog park, mini-golf and yard games, and planned indoor activities for the kids. Which goes back to point number three—they are doing just fine without a proper backyard.

  • Nothing worth having comes without hard work and sacrifice. We all are in the places we are in life because of the choices we’ve made or how we’ve responded to things outside our control, based on our values and priorities. Our family is able to take a break and travel for a bit because we have made a lot of sacrifices, prayed diligently, researched fanatically, and saved money over the course of five years to make this happen. We sold our home, most of our belongings, including our second vehicle, and said no to other things so we’d be in a position financially to travel without full-time jobs for a bit. We have been willing to embrace discomfort for the sake of something better. This didn’t come easily, and it isn’t easy. But for us, the payoff has been absolutely worth it.